As the snow is melting and Spring is is coming in full force, winter’s grasp is quickly fleeting from our minds. It’s hard to imagine that just a month ago the 15th Graduate Cohort of the North Cascades Institute was on their Winter Natural History retreat in the Methow Valley, then a winter wilderness! The retreat was thesecond retreat we had taken this year, in which we delve deep into the natural landscape to get first hand experience with our local wilderness. In this particular trip we learned about astronomy, wolverines, avalanche science and even tracking. Our whole trip had us centered at the Skalitude Retreat Center located in the Methow Valley.
Skalitude Retreat Center
After traveling for seven hours into the Methow Valley, for Washington Pass is closed in the winter, the road into Skalitude was the definition of a remote mountain road: covered with animal tracks, steep, and windy. The whole road was encased in a thick forest. As soon as we reached the retreat the trees opened up to showcase the excellent valley and the pristine snow! Living in Western Washington this winter made me forget how much I had missed feet of clean, beautiful snow.
We were greeted by the two caretakers of the center, Emma and Vick. For the next few days we got to know them and include the pair into our cohort. Featured above is the meal with homemade pasta and local greens. I never thought the first time I would make pasta would be in a remote mountain village during the heart of winter.
Even though we were in the heart of the mountains, we were far from roughing it. After a long day of hiking and tracking it felt wonderful to dry out and enjoy the sun beating against the snow.
During our free time some of us went to Lookout Mountain Lookout where the whole cascade mountain range could be seen, most of it covered in snow. Each of us felt a new sense of awe with having our classes in this part of the mountains. Before we could really delve into this landscape, however, we first needed to learn about one of its most illusive residents: the wolverine.
Wolverines in the North Cascades
We left our mountain retreat and ventured to the Methow Ranger District of the US Forest Service just a few miles away. We met with Scott Fitkin and John Rohrer to talk about these amazing carnivores that live here. They shared with us their nine year study (their most recent published study can be found at Wolverine Study 2014) in which they trapped wolverines, put tracking collars on them and then released them back into the wild in under 40 minutes.
These ferocious mustelids (weasel family) are built for the snow.
- Paws as large as a wolf for “snowshoeing” across any winter terrain
- Frost resistant fur
- Powerful jaws to cut through frozen carcasses
- Amazing healing properties
- and A metabolism to keep them running for days
John and Scott predict that there might be up to a few dozen in the North Cascades. Over nine years they have captured 13 distinct wolverines showing that the population, at least in the alpine climates, are here to stay. Even after working with these animals for almost a decade the two biologists were still amazed by these creatures. One, for example, was found with a cut in the skull so deep it looked like it might have some brain tissue damaged. They still put a collar on it, even though they were sure it was going to die. Two months later the wolverine was recaptured with no sign it had ever had an injury to the skull. Another traveled dozens and dozens of miles in under a week.
Even after nine years both John and Scott say we still need to learn a lot more about wolverines and are planning on doing a more expansive study in the years to come.
Later that evening we met with David Ward, a local astronomer. As a class we went in-depth into what was in the winter sky: Zodaical triangle, Jupiter, Orion and his fight against Taurus the bull. Every time I tried to capture what we were seeing, the beauty of the full moon ruined all of the night photography. It was nothing short however of a picturesque winter night sky.
The next day we traveled as a cohort to a snow covered forest service road: the perfect location for for some winter tracking! While strapping on cross-country skiis and snowshoes, Joshua reviewed with us the three types of tracks we were to find:
- Plantigrade: Prints showcase the whole foot. Example, humans and bears.
- Digitigrade: Prints showcase toes only. Example, wolves and mountain lions.
- Ungulate: Prints show hoof pattern. Example, deer and elk.
With that in mind we set out to discover the stories that were out there. Was it walking, hopping, bounding? Where was it going? Can you see any other tracks in the area? These were just some of the questions that were rattling around in our heads as we tracked.
As comfortable as our lodges were, we still had the joy of staying in snow shelters! The trek to our site was not far (about 200 yards) where we sculpted the snow for our means. For two whole afternoons we dug, sculpted and placed five shelters and a “groovy” kitchen.
The kitchen was large enough to have seating for the whole cohort and guests, cooking counters and food storage. Our crew spend hours on making the chairs just right, the cabinets just deep enough and the counters strong enough to handle any food preparation.
Snow shelters might look similar but their methods of construction can very immensely. The Igloo (two pictures up) has builders sculpting snow blocks that are stacked on top of one another. A quinzhee, on the other hand, has builders making a giant mound of snow and then digging a space out. Each construction requires certain snow conditions to be made properly. We decided to showcase multiple styles of snow shelters to demonstrate the variety of construction types.
During the digging out of the quinzhee, builders use sticks to test the depth of the wall. Go too thin in one spot, and the whole structure could fall. Rob and Aly are showcasing this method, often called the Porcupine since the quinzhee has multiple sticks sticking out at one time.
Our snow tent had builders making a level floor with steps. While not as warm as an igloo or quinzhee, it requires much less time to construct.
If the snow is deep enough, builders can just dig straight into the snow. Taking the quinzhee idea to a new extreme, the snow trench can be a quick, but still warm alternative to a quinzhee.
Below are the completed snow structures. While each was different, everyone made it warm and safe through the night!
As the sun was setting fast on our igloo, builders decided it best to “just throw a tarp over it.” The snow was not in the right conditions to build a proper roof so it was easy for just one night to have a quick fix solution. I personally spent the night in the “iglarp” (igloo+tarp) and it was very warm and comfortable!
When we all finished our shelters a few of us had the joy of some Shed Riding! (video courtesy of Holli Watne). Now that all of our hard work was completed we had the joy of using all of our five shelters and kitchen.
After a great night’s rest in the snow shelters we then ventured back out into the wilderness to explore some avalanche science. While not a replacement for a fullAvalanches Course, the day gave us as a cohort some tools to use whenever we are out in the winter wilderness
Our own Annah Young took charge and instructed us on how to build snow pits and do strength tests (featured in the video above).